Looking to use the 162 eld-x projectiles if the rifle likes them. Given its a common caliber and rifle was Hoping to get some loads to start with and go from there, don’t plan on getting to involved with it all just yet..
Yep Stug is onto it .. I run 73 g 2225, 20 thou jump, magnum primers, 162 Amax I also had I nice accurate load at 70.1 grains , but went with the extra speed even though I’ve got fairly well flattened primers.
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Re: 7mm rem mag loads for tikka Reply #3 - Oct 23rd, 2018 at 6:34am
If you seat to fit in a Tikka mag the jump will prob be bigger than 20 thou, but don't worry about it. I would start at 68gr 2217 and work up in 1gr . I just load one at each weight and fire over a chrono to get an idea of pressure and velocity. Once I have the velocity i want (with safe pressure) I load 3 at that weight and fire a group. If the accuracy and velocity is there and still no pressure, then I load up a heap, shoot a few targets out to whatever range I can find and then go hunting. If the accuracy is there then I will look .5g to 1g either side and load 3 at each weight and shoot groups.
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Re: 7mm rem mag loads for tikka Reply #5 - Oct 27th, 2018 at 8:28am
I just got my Tikka rem mag shooting well finally with the 162 ELD-X. 63.5gr IMR 4831 and 20thou jump for 2940fps.
My rifle really did not like 2217 no matter what I did. 2225 was going to be my next try but it’s all out of stock here so I played with the IMR and it likes it.
Am I reading the wrong load data? The hornady load data recommends a max of 68.5gr of 2217.
That seems pretty low when most people pet loads are between 70-72 grade of 2217.
Any ideas?
ADI website says max at 70.0gr with 162 projectile and 2217. I worked up to 72gr and didn’t see any obvious pressure signs but speeds were up there so didn’t dare go any further.
Powder companies tend to list max loads that are lower than most rifles can safely handle as they are concerned about safety and possible litigation. That means that above listed max loads are common, but do so at your own risk. It is also critical to work loads from well below listed max loads and watch carefully for pressure signs rather than simply copying others.
Also worth noting that above max loads will be harder on throats and will increase recoil, possibly negatively affecting accuracy. With modern very high BC projectiles, I'm not sure it's necessary to chase max velocity.
I'm going to load 180 ELD-M in my soon to be delivered 7 Rem Mag as the BCs are off the scale. If I get 2800 fps with good accuracy I will be happy. 2225 or RE26 powders for me.
Powder companies tend to list max loads that are lower than most rifles can safely handle as they are concerned about safety and possible litigation. That means that above listed max loads are common, but do so at your own risk. It is also critical to work loads from well below listed max loads and watch carefully for pressure signs rather than simply copying others.
Also worth noting that above max loads will be harder on throats and will increase recoil, possibly negatively affecting accuracy. With modern very high BC projectiles, I'm not sure it's necessary to chase max velocity.
I'm going to load 180 ELD-M in my soon to be delivered 7 Rem Mag as the BCs are off the scale. If I get 2800 fps with good accuracy I will be happy. 2225 or RE26 powders for me.
I’ll be very very interested in your results J .... please post
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Re: 7mm rem mag loads for tikka Reply #11 - Nov 9th, 2018 at 8:08am
So I still have a stash of the 162gn amax's and load them to the magazine length with 65 grns of IMR7828. One hole groups at 100 meters. Only problem is it turns deer inside out.
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Re: 7mm rem mag loads for tikka Reply #13 - Dec 2nd, 2018 at 10:25pm
No need to crimp. Bushing dies give best neck tension consistency, but lightly polished expanders balls work too.
You will get differing advice on neck or FL sizing. I neck size and bump the shoulder slightly with a bump die every firing, but FL sizing to just bump the shoulder every few firings when closing the bolt becomes difficult is fine.
Best not to over work the brass by pushing the shoulder too far back. Brass won’t last as long that way and you could encourage head separation.
When bumping the shoulder you want to just move it enough so that you feel slight resistance just as the bolt closes. Using your chamber to measure this is an easy way to do it. Screw you die down so the bottom of the die just touches the case holder then screw out back out a quarter of a turn and creep up on the best fit a bit at a time. Best to remove the firing pin when doing this.
There will be lots of other recommended ways to do this, but I think most will agree that overworking brass is not a good idea.