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Hot Topic (More than 30 Replies) Reloading consistency (Read 2108 times)
ChrisHB
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #15 - Aug 28th, 2017 at 8:44pm
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Homer wrote on Aug 28th, 2017 at 7:50pm:
..
Please keep the Autosol for your car, and don't put it any where near a good barrel, it will eventually ruin it.
..


Have to disagree there Homer.

My (.308) fullbore rifle (which was very accurate) only ever had the following cleaning regimen:

- wrap a rag round a worn .270 bronze brush and slather Autosol all over the rag
- brush the bore full length for about 10 strokes
- repeat above once more, then wipe out and store

This was  a 30" Krieger shooting moly'd Sierra 155s at ~2955fps. After  a -documented- 5000+ rounds, I fired a test group at 100yds which I still have and it was sub 1/3".  If that was "ruined", I can live with it.
  
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6.5x55bjai
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #16 - Aug 28th, 2017 at 8:58pm
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My experience - Autosol is the only stuff that will effectively remove the carbon ring just fwd of the chamber in my 6.5AI
caused by using Win 760 powder.
  
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willyr1
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #17 - Aug 28th, 2017 at 10:30pm
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I normally use sweets solvent. I think there's some sort of JDs honeing paste out at my old man's? Where would I find Autosol? Repco or something?
  

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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #18 - Aug 28th, 2017 at 10:41pm
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Could be the barrel - either the bore or the crown, or both. If there is any damage to the crown have it re-crowned. If not, copper clean thoroughly with a good copper solvent like Eliminator. If that doesn't work (after a few fouling shots), polish the throat and bore with Autosol. I disagree with Homer here - not closing pores in the steel with polishing is far worse for a barrel than not doing so, esp in a heavily used barrel. Concentrate on the throat, and less on the bore, esp the last few inches. Don't do this often, but don't worry about polishing the throat now and then - it's not made of butter. Ultimately, your barrel could be buggered already.

For reloading, my opinion is that the best single thing to aid accuracy and lower ES is to neck turn for consistent neck tension, but you really need a neck bushing die to make the most of it. If you don't want to go down that route, get your powder charges as accurate as you can and your seating depths as consistent as possible. I also always remove the expander button from my neck dies as they can increase runout. Personally I never bother weighing projectiles for hunting.

As ever, ask ten reloaders how to do it and you will get ten different answers.
  
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #19 - Aug 29th, 2017 at 9:44pm
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FIRST OFF  Grin Grin Grin Grin
stop what you are doing and check ALL screws on rifle ....both stock and very importantly scope bases and rings
why?????
cause in last 5 years Ive plurry near gone bald on two occasions when rifle accuracy turned to custard only to descover the plurry bases were loose.
chased my tail with loading and fiddling around with this and that even got rifle re crowned...then found issue and straight away rifle back to hovering around the inch mark
similar age and round count to yours,no issues for close to 25 years then......... Angry Angry Angry
thank goodness its sorted now.
  
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #20 - Aug 30th, 2017 at 8:33am
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After you have done all your obsessive brass prep then weight sort the lot.  Throw away the ones at each end of the bell curve and you have made everything a lot more consistent.
  

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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #21 - Aug 30th, 2017 at 9:21pm
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Problem with bell curve is where do you draw the line (figuratively). And to do that accurately you need a large statistical number to start basing any degree of accuracy -  I'm thinking greater than 100 units, you also need to know what your spread and significant measures are that would give a decent spread statistically. Is it every 10th of a gram or what ever. Or is near enough good enough. Any less and you're just farting against thunder. Grin
  

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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #22 - Aug 31st, 2017 at 7:09am
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Good advice Homer. I have done a lot of reloading for my 270 over the years. I always individually weighed each charge rather than trying to throw the coarser powders. I did a few tests and found that outside neck turning my cases would close the group size up on average by about 30%. Worth doing for me. There is so much to consistent loads and the powder charge is only one aspect of it. I too loaded 20 thou off the lands and hardly ever played around with different seating depths. It seemed to give the best accuracy while being reliable in a hunting load.

Cheers,

Sneaka
  
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #23 - Sep 3rd, 2017 at 5:21pm
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Anneal. SSM clean. Primer pocket uniform. Stick with ADI. They make a good powder.The 270 loves 2213sc.My son got 3 on Wednesday night. The stag got up and then got sat down with 1 in the neck. The hind that ran up behind him got 1 in the head.Got another 1 a few hours later running through the shoulders. Fastest is not the best.Prefer accurate repeatable performance. These kills with 65gr Sierra. My mate up the Lake whom I load for loves the 110gr Barnes in his 270. Running 2 grains below maxi.They are all dying with 1 pill.
  
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #24 - Sep 3rd, 2017 at 10:22pm
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I pulled some factory ammo today to check the amount of powder and to basicly see how consistent it is, found some interesting things. I was expecting the powder to be all sorts of different and the pills to be factory 2nds and way off the mark because who would check factory ammo right! The first and second box of ammo I got a while back had the same colour primer and shot ok with a 2 inch group at 100yd (I thort that was shit at the time but after shooting the third box id take 2 inch)! The third box had silver primers instead of brass so I was off it from the start then after shooting them to get a 5inch 5shot group at 100 it's fair to say I was not at all happy and nearly left the boom stick in a ditch! After doing some reloading and deciding I needed 100 pieces of brass and 60 wouldn't cut it I went and got 2 more boxs and figured I could just pull the lot and hand load with another powder and pill combo or just re weigh the powder and reload the my self after all it's already primed brass for $40 a box. I know id get new brass at that or cheaper but im impatient.
I should say at this point the ammo I got is hornady "American whitetail".
So I started pulling the third box i had got and the powder was within .5 of a grain and as it shot all over the place I was impressed with this. The powder looked very course grained and inconsistent in size of the grains. The pills were with in .2 of a grain that was impressive as that's clearly not 2nds. The cases were a little out with 2 clear lots emerging in weight one lot at 185gr and another at 179gr average.
Then I pulled some of the second box I had got to find a completely different powder in it. This powder was a ball type powder and 4 gr lighter in charge than the third box with the silver primers. Still the 2 distinct brass "lots" and very consistent pill weight. To say that the ball powders are difficult to pull is an understatement! That shit ends up everywhere! So this explains why I was getting average groups with one lot and shit groups with another lot of the same make and brand of factory ammo.
The rounds that I pulled I loaded with my hand loads of 56.5gr of 2209 and 110gr Barnes but because they hadnt been resized just pulled the relaoded the pills seated way too easy and will not give the same neck tension as normal reloaded brass and several of you have said that's essential so these might not go so well but we will see.
Anyway I've now pulled all the shit ones and now need to go shoot some goats to empty the remaining 60 or so factory loaded ammo then sort the brass into lots and reload.
I'll be fitting a suppressor and recrown in a few months do you think that will effect the loads I work up now or dose it not change things too much?
Cheers.
  

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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #25 - Sep 3rd, 2017 at 11:12pm
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We use Redding dies but use carbide buttons and with annealing and lubing the inside of the neck you don't get the hard tension and throw off during resizing. We separately decap and this also avoids any additional unwanted pressure during sizing. Our 2C.
  
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #26 - Sep 4th, 2017 at 2:21am
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Willyr1

Apart from the above suggestions , What chronograph are you using?

Are you confident it is accurate and consistent from shot to shot?

Being anal retentive to minimisie "ALL" the variable inputs in your loads, rifle  etc  will gain better consistancy from shot to shot.

This is what makes tuning a load for your particular need so challenging and enjoyable.

Cheers
Pete
  
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #27 - Nov 14th, 2017 at 7:58pm
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I'm pretty fussy about my loading, and do all of the above, but don't have a Chrony.

All of the brass I reload is de-primed and cleaned with an ultra-sound cleaner, before being polished in a tumbler. Then I start the resizing process.

My test is incrementally working towards 4-5 shots in half an inch at 100 metres, as I prefer to head-shoot my game, when I can.

Cheers
  

there is always plenty of time for procrastination.
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #28 - Nov 14th, 2017 at 8:10pm
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Ive found the hornady whitetail brass I got given in .270 an absolute arsehole to deprime the first time.....first time in 20+ years of reloading Ive turned a primer into a tent and had to lower sizing ball/depriming pin to make it pop out. they were crimped in place so Im guessing hornady uses same primed brass for both whitetail and superpreformance???? there are different types of hornady brass from batch to batch with slightly different headstamps.
the recrown and suppressor shouldnt make anything worse it should if anything make it better as your shooting could improve with less recoil/noise...POI should drop about 3" at hundred yards.
  
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Re: Reloading consistency
Reply #29 - Nov 14th, 2017 at 8:12pm
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re primer pockets...just run pointy end of case deburring tool in and give quick whirl...just enough to remove sharp lip and give SMALL countersink...make seating them in piece of cake as they slip in easy to begin/start.
  
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